Monday, November 30, 2009
Winterizing Your Plumbing and Home to Prevent Water Damage
Even in areas like Maryland, Delaware and Southeastern Pennsylvania that have relatively mild winters, sudden snow or ice storms can do major damage to your property if you’re not prepared. Your plumbing system is especially vulnerable to sudden freezes and cold snaps. Fortunately, a little pre-season preparation can save you a lot of plumbing headaches later in the winter. Here are some fast and easy tips that you can do now to prevent potentially thousands of dollars worth of water damage later.First thing you should do is identify all areas in and around your home that are most likely to freeze. This includes parts of your home's plumbing system that are located in an unheated crawl space, a basement or an exterior wall with little insulation. Also check outside pipes and hoses. Look for any signs of leaks or damage. If you see any, fix them now. are the most likely to freeze.
If you have had problems with frozen pipes that have frozen in the past or think a pipe is vulnerable to freezing, insulate them. The easiest and cheapest way to prevent a frozen pipe is to use foam insulation tubes on pipes exposed to cold climates. These insulation tubes are inexpensive and easy to install; just measure your pipes to get the correct size. You can also use heat tape to prevent freezing in pipes that have already been insulated. Heat tape is attached to the pipe and gives off a slight heat when plugged in. It is easy to install and can be found in most hardware stores.
To prevent pipes from freezing never turn off the heat in your home. Broken water pipes can cause thousands of dollars in repairs and water damage clean-up and keeping your heat on, even at a low setting, will keep pipes warm enough to prevent freezing and bursting.
During the winter season, try not to let your plumbing lines be idle for too long; instead, periodically run water through each of your major fixtures. You can also leave a sink faucet on a fast drip to keep water flowing through your pipes, as moving water doesn’t have a chance to pool and freeze. Even a little water flow can significantly warm up pipes or melt/loosen any ice that may be starting to accumulate.
Be sure to drain and shut off any unused supply or drain lines, pipes, toilets, water heaters and fixtures, especially if they will be exposed to cold temperatures.
Drain and shut off water from outdoor hoses, sprinkler systems, and swimming pools. Remove and drain any external hoses; Store them inside the house or garage, when possible, to protect them from the cold.
Besides your plumbing, here are some other potential water damage threats you should also prepare for over the winter:
One of the most important considerations before the first snowflake ever hits the ground is to make sure your home’s roof is in good shape. If you notice any water spots or leaks inside your house have a professional come inspect the structure for problem areas. Even small leaks or gaps can mean big trouble during a major storm or when winter snow starts to melt. Make necessary repairs before cold weather sets in to prevent costly damage.
It’s also important to keep snow and ice off your roof. Your best bet is to hire someone to do this for you, as it can be very dangerous work. You might even consider installing a roof heater system that will melt snow and ice on your roof, preventing it from accumulating. There are also chemicals available at many hardward stores that you can toss onto a snowy or icy roof that can stimulate melting.
Ice dams are a major concern for many homeowners. Ice dams form when attic spaces are insufficiently insulated, making them warm in the winter; this warmth melts snow on your roof. The snow melts and refreezes over and over again, piling on layers of ice until a dam is formed. These can become so heavy that they can rip gutters, soffits and trim away from the side of your house. Make sure your attic is properly insulated—it should be cold in the winter and warm in the summer. Proper attic insulation will also increase your home’s energy efficiency and can save you money on utility bills.
Clean your gutters thoroughly before the first snowfall of the season. Get rid of leaves and debris that can clog gutters and storm drains, which increase the chances of an ice dam forming on your roof.
If you are physically able to do your own snow removal, consider purchasing a snow blower. While expensive, they will make short work of clearing driveways and sidewalks. If you can’t buy a snow removal machine, invest in an ergonomic snow shovel to ease strain on your back and arms. If physical limitations prevent you from shoveling, think about hiring a contractor to plow your driveway or asking a neighbor to clear your sidewalks. Regular snow removal will prevent damage to your driveway and walkways, and will make your home safer for your family and guests.
Related Articles from Horizon Services:
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Small Home Improvements Can Produce Big Energy Savings
Green initiatives for new home construction or renovations are great for the environment, but aren’t always financially feasible for many Americans. Thankfully, there are tons of inexpensive solutions to help reduce your energy dependence, increase your home’s energy efficiency, and save yourself some money along the way. Here are some extremely quick and easy things that you can do RIGHT NOW to start saving energy and money.- Start from the Outside In: Inspect your home for drafts or air leaks around windows and doors. While replacing or adding insulation is always a good idea, a more cost effective quick fix is to weather-strip or caulk around windows and doors. Weather-stripping costs around $10 for almost two dozen feet.
- Dial Down, Dial Up: Turning down your thermostat just a few degrees in the winter not only uses less energy, but can also save 1-3% on your utility bill. If your home has air conditioning, the reverse is true for summer months. That’s a potential annual savings of nearly 10%!
- Snuggle Up: There are people who actually prefer to sleep in cold rooms, but for the rest of us it’s worth it to invest in some heavy blankets or a down comforter (you can find a decent queen size one for around $100) and lower the temperature in your home at night.
- Let the Sun Shine In: Open curtains on south-facing windows to create passive solar heat in winter and use natural light instead of lamps whenever possible.
- Let the Sun Shine Out: Close blinds and drapes in the summer to keep out the sun’s powerful rays and reduce the load on your home’s air conditioner.
- Be a Fan of Fans: Ceiling, box or desktop fans, used instead of central air or a room AC, can provide relief from the heat without breaking the bank. You can get a good fan for about $5 at most hardware or discount stores.
- Go Acoustic and Unplug: Few people realize that even when not turned on or in use, many devices continue to draw power as long as they’re connected to an electrical outlet. Unplug anything that’s not being used—toaster, coffee maker, cell phone chargers—and use power strips or a surge protector for things like computers and home theater equipment.
- Give Old Bulbs the Boot: Switching to energy efficient compact florescent bulbs—you know, those weird looking spiral things—can help you save money and reduce energy consumption. The average florescent bulb lasts longer than a traditional, doesn’t get as hot, and burns exactly the same as a standard bulb. A single compact bulb can save about $35 over its lifetime; changing every bulb in your house could save you thousands. Plus, they just look a lot cooler.
- Get Out of Hot Water: Running your water heater can eat up more than 20% of your total utility bill, but for every 10 degrees you turn down the heat you can save 3-5%. 130 degrees is optimal for cost and energy efficiency—hot enough to clean and kill bacteria, but cool enough to prevent scalding.
More Energy Efficiency Information from Horizon Services:
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Simple Clog Removal to Keep Your Pipes Flowing Freely
Clogged and slow running drains are most definitely a nuisance and can cause serious damage to pipes, fixtures or appliances if left too long. Grease, hair, food, soap waste and other materials can easily accumulate in pipes and drains. If detected and addressed early, removing these common clogs can be an easy fix for even the most inexperienced do-it-yourselfer. And regular cleaning and maintainance of your drain systems is a simple, effective way to prevent costly problems amd repair work down the road.The most popular tool for removing blockages is a common plunger, which you can purchase at just about any home improvement, hardware or discount store for less than $10. Put the plunger over the drain and press down firmly. Pull straight up with gentle force. Repeat the pushing and pulling a couple of times. Adding a little water to the sink, toilet or tub can help to create suction around the drain, making the plunger work more effectively.
Chemical drain solutions are widely available at hardware and grocery stores. These affordable cleaners are easy to use—just pour, wait and flush—and are great for removing small clogs or stubborn build-up. Always read the product label carefully, though, as some of these chemicals can be corrosive to plastic plumbing or are not recommended for use in kitchen sinks.
If you’ve tried a plunger and a chemical drain opener with little success, it may be time to use a pipe cleaner or snake. These specialty devices are easy to find or rent from home improvement or plumbing supply retailers and are perfect for getting rid of clogs close to the drain. The tool is inserted into the drain and maneuvered until the clog is pushed away and out.
Here are a few simple recipes for dissolving clogs caused by grease or debris buildup:
- Combine a pound of powder detergent with three gallons of boiling water. Hold the container close to the drain and pour slowly to prevent scalding. Flush the drain by running water from the tap a few minutes afterward.
- Baking soda and vinegar is also an effective drain opener. Pour ½ cup of regular household baking soda into the drain, then add ½ cup white vinegar; cover the drain if you can. Let the mixture stand in the drain for several minutes before adding boiling water, at least five or six cups. Never try this method immediately after using a commercial drain opener, as the baking soda and vinegar can cause a harmful reaction when they come in contact with the chemicals.
- You can also use salt and baking soda to dissolve a grease clog. Pour ½ cup coarse salt and ½ cup baking soda into the drain, followed by about six cups of boiling hot water. Let the mixture sit for at least eight hours and then flush with water from the tap.
More Information on Clogs and Drains...
Monday, November 16, 2009
Warning: Alternative Heating Sources Can Be Deadly!
These days, many homeowners are exploring alternative heating sources as a means of heating their homes and reducing heating bills during the winter months. Pellet stoves, wood stoves, fireplaces and space heaters are among the many home heating solutions that have seen a resurgence in recent years -- both as primary and supplementary heating sources -- as homeowners try to do their parts to save on heating bills.While these old-fangled heating methods can be extremely cost-effective and can give your home a special ambiance and charm, they can also be extremely dangerous if not properly installed or maintained. In fact, over the last several years, the Insurance Information Institute reports an alarming increase in the number of home fires, smoke damage and carbon monoxide poisonings traceable to the incorrect installation or use of these heating alternatives.
Alternative heating sources require special care and attention at all times. If you plan to use a wood stove or other alternative heating source in your home, Horizon Services recommends that you heed the following tips:
- Be sure that carbon monoxide detectors are installed in throughout your house
- Make sure that smoke and fire alarms are working properly
- Make sure that there is plenty of clearance bertween the stove and floors, walls and ceilings
- Keep combustible items such as books, newspapers, clothing and furniture far away from the heating source
- Make sure that your stove or heating source sits on a non-combustible, fire-resistant base
- Burn only dry-well-seasoned wood
- Dispose of ashes in a closed metal container outside of your home
- Regularly clean vents, flues and chimneys
- Check power cords frays, cracks and breakage
- Never let a fire burn unattended or overnight while you sleep
- Keep a fire extinguisher handy
Additional Information from Horizon Services:
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Tax Credits for Energy Efficiency
As part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, the federal government and many state agencies are currently offering lucrative tax incentives for citizens looking to improve their homes’ energy efficiency. The following is a brief overview of what is included in the plan, those who are eligible for tax breaks, and where to find more information about what’s being done on the state and local level.The federal incentive program is divided into two parts. One division includes renovations on existing homes only; the other covers both new construction and improvements to existing structures. Each arm of the federal program awards credits for different things, but neither places restrictions on individual or family income limits—either upper or lower.
The government will provide a tax credit in 2009 and 2010 that is 30% of the cost of improvements up to $1500 made to existing homes only. Eligible renovations included in the program are energy efficient windows and doors, insulation, metal and asphalt roof replacement, HVAC systems installation, non-solar water heaters, and biomass stoves.
Through 2016 the federal government will also credit 30% of the cost, with no upper limit, on new construction and in existing homes for installation of geothermal heat pumps, solar panels, solar water heaters, small wind energy systems, and fuel cells.While the tax credits will generally cover the cost of materials, the only services that qualify for installation and labor charge reimbursements are HVAC, biomass stoves, water heaters (both solar and non-solar), solar panels, geothermal heat pumps, wind energy systems, and fuel cells. Contractor installation charge reimbursements are not allowed for windows, doors, insulation or roofs.
The federal program has also specified separate tax incentives for home builders and commercial property owners. The aim is to encourage commercial construction to look toward more environmentally conscious and cost effective building solutions.
With all of these federal tax credits, certain restrictions and conditions apply. If you are interested in discussing any of these options with your contractor be sure to do your homework first so you’re not left holding the bag on a construction project or extensive remodel that doesn’t qualify. You can log on to the government’s Energy Star website at http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index to research the program thoroughly.
At the individual state level, there is much more variation. Through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, President Obama allotted millions of dollars of economic stimulus funds to state and tribal governments and directed them to somehow put the money to use. The money is supposed to encourage states to implement more energy efficient incentives, programs and services for residents. Most states have now set up ARRA websites specifically devoted to explaining the Recovery Act and outlining how the states have chosen to use the stimulus money. Check your state’s homepage for links to state-specific ARRA information and to learn about ways in which your home state is putting that federal money to use for you and your neighbors.
Meanwhile -- 2009 is quickly drawing to a close. Time is running out if you want to make energy-efficient improvements and receive credit on your 2009 tax forms. Fortunately, Horizon Services offers a wide array of energy-efficient heating and cooling systems and equipment that meet and exceed the federal governments energy-efficiency standards. When you schedule a FREE In-Home Energy Analysis, a Horizon comfort consultant will thoroughly analyze your home and your family's heating and cooling needs to match you with the ideal heating and cooling system for your home and budget requirements.
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Is It Time for a New Water Heater?
A quality water heater can last ten to fifteen years if it’s properly maintained. There does come a time, though, when you may need to repair or replace your system. Before you spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on a new water heater, determine if your unit’s problems could be solved with a tune-up.If your water is not hot enough make sure the power is connected (if your heater is electric) or that the pilot is lit (if you have a gas system). Try resetting the thermostat and flush the heater to get rid of any sediment that’s built up in the tank. Add extra insulation around exposed hot water pipes and raise the temperature on the thermostat a few degrees. If your water heater runs on gas, clean the gas burner and replace the thermo coupler, a safety device that shuts the gas off if the pilot light goes out.
If your heater is making hissing or popping noises, drain the tank until the water runs clear to remove accumulated sediment and debris. Soak the elements in white vinegar and scrub them to remove lime scale and buildup.
If your water pipes are leaking try tightening the fittings. If that doesn’t work, shut off the water and replace them. Leaky valves should always be replaced.
A brand new water heater can cost anywhere from $500 to $1000 or more; buying a new system should be your last resort. Many common problems can be resolved by a few minor repairs.
Most water heater parts are designed to be replaceable. This includes heating elements, thermostats, anode rods and valves. If your heater is less than 13 years old and has been working just fine until a specific time that you can pinpoint, you will probably need a simple repair. A professional will be able to tell you what’s not working and can install replacement parts to fix the problem.
Consider factors like local weather, design of your equipment, quality of installation, level of regular maintenance the unit receives, volume of daily use, and your water quality. All of these things can shorten the lifespan of your water heater. If your system undergoes a lot of wear and tear, replacement might be more cost effective than trying to fix a struggling unit.
If your heater is more than 13 years old and has started to malfunction it’s probably cheaper in the long run to buy a new system. If you notice leaks in the body of the heater tank itself or around plumbing fixtures, you should replace the unit immediately. Excessive corrosion on the tank or around pipe connections usually indicates a major problem, too. If you can only get cold water from the hot water tap, if your heater isn’t able to consistently produce enough hot water, or if you hear clanking, popping or sizzling noises that persist after parts have been replaced, it’s probably time to shop for a new water heater.
For More Information on Hot Water Heaters, check out this article from Horizon Services:
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Video: What You Need to Know About Boilers!
Thinking about installing a boiler for home heating and hot water? In this video, John Costa, Training Manager at Horizon Services, Inc. explains what you should be looking for in a boiler and what makes OUR boilers different from others on the market. John covers a variety of boiler topics and components including: boiler efficiency, firing rate, outdoor temperature sensors, variable speed blowers, domestic hot water, expansion tanks, pumps vs. zone valves, air elimination, flow check valves, purge valves, safety devices, set up and installation procedures.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Furnace Filters: Options and Maintenance
Here’s one of the most common heating problems we see at Horizon Services: people who never or rarely change their furnace filters. Far too many homeowners underestimate the importance of regular filter replacement. Others are under the erroneous impression that all furnace filters are the same; sorry, folks…but that’s not the case.Cold Hard Fact: Selecting the right filter for your furnace and replacing your filters according to a recommended maintenance schedule is the smartest thing you can do to keep your furnace working at peak efficiency, prevent furnace breakdowns and to guarantee that your furnace has a long and productive life.
Here are some important things you need to know about filters and your furnace:
Furnace filters work to remove dust and particles from the air that circulate around your home. When the filter is dirty or clogged with debris, the furnace has to work much harder to push warm air through the blower. This means higher energy costs and increased wear and tear on the furnace.
Clogged filters can also have a negative impact on the air quality inside your home. Dust and pollutants plugging your furnace’s filter are pushed out when air blows through it. This releases mold spores, pollen, dust mites, dander, bacteria and other invisible nasties into the air inside your home. You may notice increased sensitivity like burning, itchy eyes, coughing, sore throat, nasal congestion, sneezing or more acute allergic reactions.
What’s more, since many Americans spend the majority of their time indoors—some of us as much as 90 percent—most of the air we breathe is recycled. Sealing doors and windows may help reduce energy costs and restrict the release of harmful chemicals into the environment, but it also sentences us to a life of breathing the same air over and over. None of the trapped air gets out, no fresh air gets in.
A dirty furnace filter can actually help contribute to chronic conditions like asthma and allergies, as well as increase frequency of illnesses like bronchitis and the flu.
One of the best ways to maintain a healthy home is to replace your furnace filter regularly. Once a month, inspect your furnace’s filter for dirt and dust. If it looks dirty, replace it—no matter when you changed it last. More dust can accumulate at certain times of the year, like in winter when the furnace is most often used, so you may need to change the filter more frequently during these seasons.
As for types of filters, there are several options to choose from:
- Standard furnace filters are made from fiberglass threads, cloth or open cell foam in a cardboard frame. They can be purchased at most home improvement stores for less than $5. Standard filters remove as much as 10 percent of the large dust particles in the air and should be changed monthly.
- Reusable or washable filters are more durable and more effective in removing particles from the air. However, they do require regular cleaning and the trapped debris can be difficult to remove.
- Pleated disposable filters have a larger capture area thanks to their folded structure. The filtering material is usually quite dense and because the surface area is bigger, these kinds of filters are more effective than other kinds—removing up to 40 percent of pollutants. They can cost as much as $10 but only need to be replaced a few times a year.
- High efficiency pleated filters are the top of the line. They use electrostatic charges to remove debris from the air, capturing about 30 times more allergens and small particles than standard filters. They can cost upwards of $25 but are so highly regarded that they have received the endorsement of the American and Canadian Lung Associations.
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