Plumbing DIYers...Take the Time To Do It Right!

If you do any of your own simple plumbing repairs, you know that tightening plumbing fittings is not always the easiest task on your to-do list. Taking your time and following these basic tips will help you turn a wrench like a pro without damaging your plumbing fixtures.

1. Hand Tight is Right. It seems to go against common sense, but plumbing fittings don’t have to be super tight in order to function properly. In fact, pipes should only be hand tight to help aid the flow of water throughout your home. The unique construction and configuration of pipes means they are made to be tightened just enough; making them super tight can actually prevent water from flowing properly. Over-tightening will also warp the rubber fittings inside the pipes over time, which can increase the risk of leaks. Turn a plumbing fitting only until you feel it tighten, then stop. Continuing to turn past that point can lead to trouble.
   


2. No Stripping. Plumbing fittings look like extra large bolts. Inside each bolt are threads that allow the fitting to screw onto the pipes to create a tight seal. If you tighten the fittings too much, you may strip the threads inside the fitting or on the outside of the pipe. As with any household screw, once the threads are stripped it’s nearly impossible to get the fitting to tighten on the pipe. This makes it more likely that a leak will develop, and it also increases the chance of a cracked or burst pipe in extreme weather or high water pressure.
   


3. Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty. This isn’t just a playground rhyme; it really works. Turning a screw, opening a jar or bottle, operating a faucet, and adjusting a plumbing fitting all function on the same principle. Turning to the left loosens the plumbing fitting; turning to the right tightens it. Remembering this simple rhyme can prevent a bad seal and stripped fittings. It’s also handy in a pinch if you need to shut off the water supply quickly.
   


4. Plumber’s Tape is Your Friend. One of a plumber’s most trusted secret weapons is common plumber’s tape. It is usually made from silicone and helps create a stronger, waterproof seal on pipes and fittings. Using plumber’s tape around fittings while you tighten them will prevent over-tightening, protect against leaks, and ensure a good seal. Plumber’s tape is available at most home improvement or hardware stores in the plumbing section.
   


5. Keep Pipe Fittings Warm. If you’re working on exterior pipes located outside your home, it’s wise to keep plumbing fittings wrapped in magnetic insulation. Water that is allowed to leak or spray from loose fittings outside in cold weather increases the likelihood of freezing, cracking, and bursting—which means big trouble inside your home, too. Wrapping outdoor fittings to protect them from harsh weather will help maintain a constant temperature and ensure your pipes stay in good repair. You can also find pipe insulation at home improvement, hardware, or plumbing supply stores.
   

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What You Can't See May Be Costing Hundreds of Dollars in Wasted Heating and Air Conditioning Bills!

Your heating and cooling systems use more energy than any other system in your home. Typically, 46% of your entire utility bill goes for heating and air conditioning alone. For many homeowners, a large chunk of that heating and cooling bill may be completely wasted...and the culprit is hidden out of sight beneath your feet and over your head.

Your home’s air duct system is a complex network of tubes made of sheet metal, fiberglass or other materials that runs throughout your walls, floors, and ceilings, carrying heated or cooled air from your home’s furnace and central air conditioner to each room. But if these air ducts have leaks or are poorly insulated, as much as 60% of your heated or cooled air can be lost before it even reaches the registers in these rooms. That can result in a lot of wasted energy...and money. As well, ducts that are damaged or don’t work properly can create serious, life-threatening carbon monoxide (CO) problems in the home.

Sealing and insulating air ducts that are in unconditioned spaces -- such as an attic, crawl space or basement -- is extremely important and can be a great way to get a handle on out-of-control heating and cooling costs. Insulation if fairly easy to install on existing duct work. If you are buying a new duct system, consider one that comes with insulation already installed. Sealing your air ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if you want to save energy and money. If the supply ducts are leaking, large amounts of heated or cooled air can be forced out of holes or unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints. In the summer, hot attic air can be drawn in, increasing the load on the air conditioner. In the winter, your furnace will have to work longer to keep your house comfortable. Either way, your energy losses can cost you big bucks.

In most cases, air ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by a qualified HVAC and duct work professional using appropriate sealing and insulation materials -- especially if the air ducts are concealed. If you're a handy do-it-yourselfer, here are a few simple tips to help with minor or temporary repairs to visible duct work.

• Check your ducts for obvious air leaks. Look for sections of duct work that should be joined but have separated, as well as for holes or punctures.


• If you use tape to seal your ducts, avoid the common cloth-backed, rubber adhesive duct tape that you can get at any old store. This garden variety duct tape tends to fail quickly. Instead, most HVAC and duct contractors recommend professional quality mastic, butyl, foil or other heat-resistant tapes. Look for tape with the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) logo.


• Be award that insulating ducts in the basement will make the basement colder. If the heat ducts are fully insulated, water pipes and drains in the basement could freeze and burst if the basement temperature gets too cold. Use electric heating tape wrap on your pipes to prevent this. Also consider insulating your basement walls to hold more heat in or installing heating in your basement.


• If your basement has been converted to a living area, hire a professional to install both supply and return registers in the basement rooms.


• Make sure that a well-sealed vapor barrier exists on the outside of the insulation on cooling ducts to prevent moisture from building up.
  

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A Comprehensive Shape-Up Plan for Your House!

Whole House Home Performance is gaining popularity in the home improvement industry, as more and more homeowners search for ways to upgrade their home's’s energy efficiency. It is a systematic approach to home improvement in which a certified professional uses state-of-the-art diagnostic equipment and testing to identify the cause of some of the most common household problems that impact energy-efficiency, indoor air quality, and comfort. Following these recommendations can make your home healthier and more comfortable, as well as significantly reduce your monthly utility bills and even increase your home's value.

The following are some of the most frequently identified areas where Whole House Home Performance improvements can make a difference.


Sealing Leaks and Ductwork:

Repairing leaky ducts and sealing drafts can reduce your heating and cooling expense by 30 percent or more. If ducts, windows, and doorways are not sealed properly, all the energy used to heat or cool the air inside your home is wasted.

Sealing ducts with mastic, durable duct tape, or an aerosol sealant, insulating duct work in attics and crawl spaces, and weather-stripping windows and doors will help improve air flow throughout your house.


Adding Insulation:

Inadequate insulation in ceilings, basements, attics, and exterior walls can allow warm air to escape your home in winter and cold air to escape in summer. This forces your home’s heating and cooling systems to work harder than they have to, which increases energy usage and utility costs. In cold regions, insufficient insulation can also lead to ice dams, which clog gutters and cause roof leaks and pipe bursts.

Improving the level of insulation in these areas ensures that both warm and cool temperatures are stabilized throughout your house, making for a more comfortable dwelling that’s more affordable to heat and cool.


Upgrading HVAC Equipment:

Older air conditioners can use 30 to 50 percent more energy than newer models. Replacing an old device with a new machine that has a high energy-efficiency rating can cut your summer cooling costs in half. The same can be said of heating systems.

Before you decide to replace your central air or heat system, be sure to have a professional check the ductwork. If ducts are in disrepair, buying a new system won’t help you save any money; all that energy-efficiency will simply leak out through the cracks and tears.

As well, regular service and annual furnace tune-ups and air conditioning tune-ups are a great way to guarantee that your heating and cooling system stays in fine working order, lasts a long time and continues to perform at peak efficiency levels.


Upgrading Lighting and Appliances:

Lighting and appliances account for about half of the average home’s total energy costs. Perhaps the simplest change you can make is to replace the bulbs in your home with energy-efficient compact fluorescent lighting and to swap older appliances for Energy Star rated models. Dishwashers, refrigerators, washers and dryers, and other major appliances that are more than 10 years old are significantly less efficient than newer models. Furthermore, replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents can drastically reduce your monthly utility bill. And you’ll save even more money because compact fluorescents last 10 times longer than traditional bulbs—you won’t have to change a light bulb for four or five years.



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Low water pressure is certainly an annoyance for many homeowners. Not only can it increase the time it takes to do things like shower, wash dishes, and water outdoor plants, but it also significantly increases how much water is used doing these simple tasks. There are many things that can cause low water pressure, but there are several things you can do to resolve the problem on your own.

Most homes have two main water supply valves—the customer valve, located in your water meter box, and the home valve, located on the exterior hose faucet at the front of your house. If either of these valves is even slightly turned away from the “on” position it can drastically decrease water pressure.

Leaking pipes will also decrease water pressure noticeably. It can be difficult to determine if you have a leak, but the best way to check is to look at your water meter. To read your meter, shut off all faucets both inside and outside your home. Read the meter and leave the water off for at least two hours. Go back and read the meter again. If your usage has gone up, there’s a good chance you’ve got a leaking pipe somewhere. Call a licensed plumber right away to prevent extensive damage.

Low water pressure could be the result of something as simple as the time of day you’re using your water. Most of us operate on the same daily schedule—lots of activity early in the morning as we get ready for work and school, less usage throughout the day as we are out of the house, then things pick up again in the evening when everyone returns home. If you notice changes in your water pressure only at certain times of day or specific days of the week, it could mean that you and your neighbors are on a similar schedule. Try varying your water usage by showering at night, running the dishwasher right before bed, or putting in a load of laundry as you leave for work in the morning.

Pressure regulators are small, bell-shaped devices that are usually located just below the front hose connection on your house. Most builders preset these regulators between 45 and 60 psi, and this is usually more than sufficient to maintain water pressure throughout the home. However, sometimes a pressure regulator just wears out or goes bad and needs to be replaced. If you suspect your water pressure troubles lie with the regulator, it’s best to consult a plumber. It’s an easy, inexpensive fix and you’ll save yourself the trouble of causing more damage by trying to repair or replace it yourself.

Older homes or those with galvanized iron pipes are prone to mineral deposits that build up over time. These are unavoidable, but can cause structural damage and make pipes more prone to cracking and leaking. If you know your house is old or has iron pipes, it’s best to consult a professional plumber who can assess the extent of the problem and estimate the cost of repairs.

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