Friday, February 26, 2010
Regular Septic System Maintenance is a Must!
There are more than 25 million homes in America that have a septic system. If you live in one of them, you may already know that regular maintenance is the only way to keep your septic tank functioning properly. Thankfully, maintaining your septic system is pretty easy, so long as you remember to be consistent with a schedule of treatment and preventative care.A septic tank is actually a sophisticated waste management method that stores and removes waste from your home. Bacteria in the septic tank break down sewage and keep the system functioning properly. When there aren’t enough organisms present in the septic tank, sewage builds up much faster than normal and can cause clogs in the system pipes that force waste back-ups.
The easiest and most effective way to ensure there are enough bacteria and enzymes in your septic system is to use a natural additive like Rid-X or Liquid Plumr Septic System Treatment, which is usually poured straight into a toilet and flushed into the tank. These and other substances like them will add billions of waste-destroying bacteria to your tank without harming the existing enzymes or polluting ground water.
Most septic system manufacturers require once-monthly treatments to guarantee the best results because as water flows into the septic tank each time a toilet it flushed or a drain is opened, it washes away the bacteria and enzymes in the system. Replenishing these bacteria regularly will help your septic system maintain an appropriate amount of beneficial organisms. So mark your calendar, set an email reminder, or leave a big note on the fridge—do whatever it takes to remember this one simple step and you can save yourself a lot of trouble down the road.
Over time, septic tanks and pipes can deteriorate and weaken, tree roots can infiltrate the system causing cracks, and waste matter can form blockages that bacteria can’t reach. Just like you should see your doctor for a physical each year, your septic system should have regular appointments with a dedicated septic system expert to make sure there are no underlying, unseen problems that could lead to serious damage. Septic tank repairs can be pricey, but these costs are nothing compared to the expenses that will surely start to add up if something goes wrong. Then, you’ll be looking at not only extensive repairs to the septic system itself, but also the additional charges associated with clean-up, ground water testing, sanitization, and more.
You should have your septic tank pumped at least once every couple of years (even if you’re religious about monthly additives); an expert with a high-powered pump can remove a lot more waste at a much faster speed than a billion microscopic bacteria working for a full month.When it comes to septic systems, prevention is much easier and more cost efficient than dealing with problems as they arise. Setting a regular septic system maintenance schedule and sticking to it will save you the expense and embarrassment of a messy septic malfunction.
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Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Proper Disposal of Used Air Conditioners or Old Appliances
Got an old air conditioner or other appliance you're thinking of getting rid of? Don't just put it out with the garbage..or worse, dump it somewhere off the beaten track. Old, household appliances like air conditioning units, refrigerators, freezers, washers and dryers contain components and substances that can potentially cause harm to the environment if not disposed of properly.The release of toxic chemicals, greenhouse gases and heavy metals are all real threats when these appliances make their way to landfills and garbage dumps. Proper recycling and disposal greatly reduces the risk of environmental contamination.
What Can Be Recycled?
Refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers and air conditioners contain chemical refrigerants and insulation that release ozone-depleting substances into the atmosphere when they are thrown away. Older models can even contain mercury and PCBs. Federal laws require proper removal and disposal of refrigerants to reduce the possible effects of these chemicals.
If you need to get rid of an old refrigeration appliance or air conditioner, check your town’s bulk trash pick-up program. Some municipalities offer these “big item” collections a few times a year or allow residents to make arrangements to have large items picked up upon request.
Electronics like computers, stereos and televisions contain recyclable materials and toxic substances like lead, mercury, zinc and brominated flame retardants. Many of these materials can be reconditioned for other applications, so long as the appliances are disposed of properly.
Many major electronics manufacturers and retail stores have programs that let consumers trade in old equipment in exchange for discounts or rebates on new products. Items are collected and disposed of in compliance with federal environmental laws.
The Environmental Protection Agency also maintains local e-waste recycling or donation programs. Check the EPA website for details about programs in your area.
Fluorescent lights contain harmful CFLs that classify them as toxic waste. Because they also have small amounts of mercury, many states ban disposal of lighting equipment in normal household trash.
Many towns do offer safe, environmentally responsible lighting disposal at recycling centers or waste transfer stations. Requirements and opportunities vary from state to state so check the EPA website for more information about programs in your area.
If you have old lighting fixtures that were manufactured before 1979, you are required by federal law to get rid of them properly. Visit http://www.lamprecycle.org/ for a directory of national recyclers.
Can I Get Money for My Old Stuff?
Rebates and discounts are a popular motivation that lots of utility companies and local municipalities use as an incentive to comply with waste disposal regulations. Commonly, rebates are offered for trade-ins of old appliances and are distributed in the form of cash payments or credit toward the purchase of a new Energy Star-qualified replacement. Companies may provide haul-away services or may sponsor drop-off events. The most popular target for these kinds of programs are old refrigerators, though some offer rebates for portable air conditioners, computer equipment and electronics.
If your appliances are still in good, usable condition, you can always offer them to the highest bidder on websites such as Ebay or Craig's List. Other websites, such as FreeCycle and SwapTree will let you list items you wish to simply give away or trade with others.
The most important thing to remember is that many household appliances, particularly older model refrigerators, air conditioners, televisions and light fixtures, can be classified as hazardous waste. It is your responsibility—or the responsibility of your contractor—to handle, dispose of or recycle these items properly to reduce the risks to your health and the environment.
Can I Just Give My Appliances Away?
Sure. Many charitable organizations will take your old appliances, provided that they are still functional and safe. You may even qualify for a charitable tax deduction. Some organizations to consider include:
- The Salvation Army
- Purple Heart
- Goodwill Industries
- The United Way of Southeastern PA
- The United Way of Delaware
- The United Way of Cecil County, MD
- Local churches and synagogues
Related Information...
Monday, February 22, 2010
Green Plumbing at Home
Innovative Plumbing Solutions That Can Save The Earth AND Save You Money!One of the best arguments for making your home green is that a few simple changes can save you lots of money on utility costs. While green plumbing solutions can be a bit more expensive up front, the long-term savings are significant enough to warrant serious consideration of some of the following products.
The gold standard for energy-efficient appliances, electronics, lighting, and yes, even plumbing fixtures, remains the Energy Star label. You can find this designation clearly marked on qualifying products. However, green innovation is an evolving industry and there are lots of exciting new options on the market these days.
Toilets:
Composting toilets do exactly what you think they do. Without water or a septic/sewer connection, these units collect solid waste and convert it to—ahem—organic fertilizer. Worried about the smell? Several companies offer odorless models.
Low flow toilets or dual flush toilets are hot items right now in green home construction and remodeling. They use significantly less water than traditional commodes and dual flush toilets let you choose how much water to use depending on the type of waste you need to dispose of.
Waterless urinals are odorless, hands free devices that use scent-blocking biodegradable chemicals to filter liquid waste and force it down the drain. They claim to be not only cleaner and more environmentally friendly, but also easier and cheaper to maintain.
Showers and Sinks:
Low flow aerators are popular and easy additions to green your faucets. These small metal devices attach directly onto the head of the fixture—no special tools needed—and allow you to adjust the flow of water out of the faucet. The best part is that aerators don’t affect water pressure in the slightest.
Low flow showerheads are similar to aerators—you can modify rate of water flow without sacrificing pressure. There are several models on the market; look for those with non-aerating spray, which can shorten the time it takes for water to heat up and will save energy.
Motion sensor faucets are really popular in new commercial restroom construction. We’ve all used them—put your hand under the faucet and the water comes on; move your hand away and the water shuts off. There are now several models appropriate for residential use.
Water Heaters:
Instant spigots provide hot water on demand, saving energy because water does not have to be kept continuously heated in a storage tank.
Solar water heaters harness the power of the sun’s UV rays—which are completely free, by the way—and convert them to usable energy. There are many different types of solar water heaters out there; a qualified dealer can help you find the one that’s right for you.
Point of use water heaters are actually a series of small tanks only where you need hot water. Rather than store and heat enough water for an entire home’s worth of various uses, these miniature units hold just enough water for a specific task like taking one shower or doing a load of laundry.
Related Plumbing Information...
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Get To Know Your Sump Pump!
If you own property situated on land with low elevation or in an area with a high water table, chances are you’ve experienced flooding at some point. Homes located on floodplains are at greater risk for yard and basement flooding after heavy rain or snow melt, and it certainly doesn’t take much water to cause serious damage. Just a few inches of stagnant water in a basement or near a home’s foundation can result in thousands of dollars in repair, clean up and restoration costs.The most effective way to prevent this kind of flooding is to invest in a good, quality sump pump.
Most homes have tile drains that wrap around the house and collect excess water from rainfall or melting snow. If the tiles become deluged the surplus water is diverted and collected in a sump, a small well or pit in the floor of the basement.
If the sump becomes too full, the well could overflow into the basement or seep through cracks in your home’s foundation due to the still-submerged tile drains surrounding the house. This is how basement and low level flooding happens.
A sump pump is a device specifically designed to draw excess water out of your home. When water that’s collected in the sump well reaches a perilous level the sump pump kicks in to flush it out through a pipe connected to your city’s storm drain system. The liquid is channeled away from your home, virtually eliminating the risk of flooding.
Sump pumps work on a float system, kind of like a toilet in reverse. In a toilet tank, the float detects when water in the tank has reached a certain level and stops the commode. A sump pump float senses when water has risen to a particular level and turns on the pump. There are a few different types of sump pump systems to choose from.
Pedestal sump pumps are placed over the well. The pump motor is out of the water where it can’t get wet, which makes the machine run much louder but also helps the motor last longer because it’s not submerged in water all the time. Pedestal pumps are usually the most cost effective option.
Submersible sump pumps sit inside the sump well and are covered over by water as it rises in the pit. The motor is sealed and completely waterproof, making it relatively durable and dependable. These types of sump pumps tend to be more expensive—about $300—but are usually the most highly recommended model for installation in finished basements.
Battery back-up sump pumps allow for continued operation even during a power outage. If you live in an area of the country prone to serious storms or frequent blackouts, a batter back-up pump ensures that water continues to be diverted away from your home even if you have no electricity. Having a batter backup system offers valuable peace of mind for homeowners who travel often or maintain seasonal residences. These models can be very expensive—$700 or more—but are able to handle thousands of gallons of water without needing a battery charge.
Related Information...
Monday, February 15, 2010
Energy Efficient Kitchens
The average American home spends about 20 percent of total household energy bills on running electronic devices and appliances; things like computers, refrigerators, washing machines and dryers, televisions, stereos, and dishwashers comprise the bulk of most home energy usage. Coincidentally, many of the most common—and most heavily used—household appliances are in the kitchen. The following tips will help you boost your kitchen’s energy efficiency, reduce your monthly utility bills, and trim down your family’s carbon footprint.Refrigerators and Freezers
Be sure to set your refrigerator and freezer to a reasonable temperature. Most manufacturers have recommended temperature settings clearly marked near the climate control panel inside the appliance. If you can’t find it, a good temperature range is between 35 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit for refrigerators, and 0 degrees Fahrenheit for free-standing freezers.
A full fridge or freezer is much more energy efficient than an empty one. Whenever possible, stock them to near-capacity to reduce the compressor’s workload. This can also delay food thawing and warming in the event of a power outage.
Try to position the refrigerator in a cool spot, away from heat sources like the oven or a window that received direct sunlight most of the day. This keeps the fridge cooler overall and prevents the appliance from having to run overtime to compensate for the extra heat.
Freezers should never be placed in an area of extreme temperatures, particularly outdoors. Drastic climate changes can force the compressor to work overtime, causing premature wear and tear. Basements and garages are suitable alternatives if you don’t have room in your kitchen.
Air should be able to move freely behind the fridge or freezer. Set the appliance a few inches from the wall and regularly clean condenser coils (if you have an older model) so there’s no dust or debris restricting air flow. Your owner’s guide will have detailed information on how to safely clean the coils, and you can find specialty cleaning brushes at most major hardware stores.
Check the door seals and make sure they’re intact and airtight. If you notice any gapping, sagging, bunching or breakage replace the seals immediately.
Only open the fridge or freezer door when necessary and close the door when you’re not actively loading or unloading items.
Dishwashers
We’ve all heard the joke about washing the dishes before we wash the dishes (in the dishwasher). While most new models can handle large food particles, many of us are still in the habit of rinsing dishes before we load them in the washer. However, you can save more than 20 gallons of water simply by scraping dirty dishes instead of hand rinsing them before they go in the dishwasher.
There’s very little difference between the amount of water and energy a dishwasher uses on a full load and on a light load, but frequent cycles obviously use more energy—and cost more. To maximize your machine’s efficiency, try to run it only when it’s full.If your dishwasher has a drying feature, turn it off or choose the no-heat option. Heat drying requires even more energy and doesn’t make a significant difference in drying results.
Related Information from Horizon Services...
Friday, February 12, 2010
What Is The Right Water Pressure For Your Home?
When it comes to water pressure in your home, everybody has an opinion on what is adequate. One family member's trickle of water is another family member's high-power firehose. One way to arrive at a peaceful settlement is to determine your home's water pressure in a definitive measurable way. Thus, having periodic water pressure readings is always a good idea.A water pressure reading will tell you exactly how forceful your water is in PSI (pounds per square inch). Normal water pressure is generally between 40 and 60 PSI; most homeowners prefer something right in the middle around 50 PSI. Once you measure your home's water pressure, you can adjust it to a setting that is ideal for all family members and household uses.
Checking and adjusting your water pressure can also save you money and improve the quality of your life. If the water pressure is too high, you may be using too much water each day; if it's too low, you may be taking longer to perform cleaning and bathing tasks or not adequately getting the job done. (If you're a shower taker, chances are you want all the pressure you can get!)
Water pressure readings are a great way to monitor the health of your plumbing system. Sudden changes in water pressure could be a sign of a serious plumbing problem. Decreases in water pressure and flow could indicate a serious blockage somewhere in your piping. And surges in water pressure intensity are not normal and could put undue stress on pipes, fixtures and appliances (such as your washing machine and dishwasher). Too much pressure can also wear down washers, cause faucets to drips and leaks, as well as make toilets run constantly
A plumber can always take a water pressure reading for you. But if you're a hands-on homeowner, this is something you can do for yourself. Many homes have a water pressure gauge -- usually in the basement or near an outdoor spigot. You can also purchase water pressure gauges in most hardware stores for $10-20. These water pressure gauges are pretty easy to install, operate and read; just screw on to any indoor or outdoor faucet. You should try to take a reading from as many faucets as possible including outdoor hose spigots and the faucet that connects to your washing machine.
Don't Have Time to Install and Use a Water Pressure Gauge? Try the Multi-Flow Test!
Here's a simple low-tech way to see if your home has or doesn't have adquate water pressure. Run a washing machine or dishwasher; then turn on a couple of sinks in the house, as well as the shower and other plumbing fixtures. If water doesn't flow strongly out of any of these faucets and fixtures, or flows fine on one floor but not on another, you probably should increase your water pressure.
Adjusting Your Water Pressure
Most houses built in the last 25-30 years have a pressure reducing valve on the supply line coming into the house. It's usualy pretty simple to adjust that valve to increase or reduce the water pressure. First, locate the valve; most likely it will be found near your water meter in the basement or possibly in a crawlspace. The pressure reducing valve is made of brass with a bell-shaped middle section with a screw in the end of the bell.
Turning that screw adjusts the water pressure. To increase your water pressure you tighten the screw down by turning it clockwise; to decrease the water pressure, turn the screw counter-clockwise. Do this in small increments, making sure to measure your water pressure after each adjustment.
If these adjustments don't work for you, if you're not comfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you live in an older home, we recommend calling a plumber. A plumber can find the pressure reducer valve (or install one if your home doesn't have one). Your plumbing professional can also identify if your bad water pressure is due to a more serious problem in your piping or outside of your house.
More Information...
Wednesday, February 10, 2010
How to Use a Programmable Thermostat
Installing a programmable thermostat is a simple way to improve the energy efficiency of your existing heating and cooling system. If you are away from your home for long periods of the day, a programmable thermostat allows you to set the temperature so that you’ll save energy during the times when your house in unoccupied but still be comfortable when you return home each day. By properly setting a programmable thermostat, you can save nearly $200 a year on energy costs.Choosing the Right Programmable Thermostat
The most important consideration you’ll have to make is what your personal schedule is like. If you and your family are out of the house for regular periods of time—for work, for school, for family activities, etc.—then one of the three different types of programmable thermostat could be right for you.
7-day thermostats are a great choice if your schedule fluctuates from day to day, for example, if you have young children who are only in school a few days a week, or if you work part-time. These models let you set up to four different temperatures per day and allow for different programs on different days. 7-day models are the most flexible programmable thermostats.
5+2-day thermostats allow you to set one schedule for weekdays and another for weekends. These are perfect if you spend long periods of time away from home during the week and are around the house mostly on weekends.
5-1-1 thermostats are for the highly scheduled family. If school and full-time work keep you out of the house for long periods on weekdays, while activities and socializing take you away from home on Saturdays and Sundays, this type of thermostat gives you the flexibility to set multiple schedules for multiple days.
Selecting the right kind of programmable thermostat is the best way to ensure your family’s comfort and maximize your energy savings.
Getting the Most Out of Your Programmable Thermostat
If you want to install a programmable thermostat on your own, be sure to situate it away from heating and cooling vents, appliances, doorways, fireplaces, lighting fixtures, skylights and windows, and areas of your home that get lots of direct sunlight or are drafty. Interior walls are usually best.
Set the thermostat lower in winter and higher in summer for the periods of time when your home will be unoccupied the longest and overnight.
Most programmable thermostats have a “Hold” button. When you leave your home for an extended period—such as for vacation or an overnight visit—use the hold to keep the temperature steady while you’re gone without having to disrupt your normal schedule.
Try not to override your settings once they’re been programmed. Doing this forces your system to work overtime, this uses more energy and could inflate your utility bill.
If you have multiple heating and cooling zones in your house—like an upstairs area that is only used for sleeping, or a little-used finished basement—install a separate thermostat for each zone. This will help you maximize comfort and savings.
If your thermostat is battery-operated, be sure to change the batteries at least once a year. Many units even have automatic indicators or alarms that will let you know when the batteries need to be changed.
Related Information...
Monday, February 8, 2010
Choosing the Right Humidifier for Your Home
Most home heating systems can cause the air in your home to become too dry, and that can lead to a host of problems for your home. With winter weather here , now is a good time to think about the right humidifier or humidification system for your home.Finding the right level of humidity in your home is tricky business. Too much and you run the risk of accumulated indoor condensation, which can lead to mold and mildew build-up; drywall, insulation and wood rot; or blistering, peeling paint and wallpaper. Too little humidity and you may find yourself contending with cracking hardwood floors, moldings and trim; aggravated allergies and asthma symptoms; dry sinuses; and itchy skin.
A home humidification system can provide the perfect amount of moisture to the air inside your home, improving your family’s overall health and comfort. There are three main options to choose from: portable units, console units and whole house systems.
Portable Humidification Units:
Portable humidifiers, commonly referred to as tabletop units, are an inexpensive, effective option to control moisture in a single room or a small space. These devices generally retail for $20 to $70, and can be moved freely around your house. If you live in a small apartment or only want to humidify a single room in your home, a tabletop unit is a sensible solution.
Tabletop humidifiers can be relatively high maintenance, though. They must be filled manually, usually every 24 hours, and only control air quality in a small area—maybe a couple hundred square feet or so. Output settings are limited, if they can be adjusted at all. Perhaps the biggest drawback with portable humidifiers is that they pull water from a holding tank, which means that standing water is always part of the deal when you use one. Mold and bacteria can collect in the tank and are then forced into the air as the humidifier releases water vapor. These appliances require vigilant cleaning and sanitization to prevent harmful build-up.
Console Humidifiers:
For larger areas, console humidifiers are a good choice. Console units cost about $75 to $150 and, like tabletop humidifiers, are fully portable and easy to use. Small consoles can cover about 2000 square feet, while larger units can easily handle an entire 3300 square foot home.
You’ll still have to fill a console unit manually, about every two days. As with tabletop units, standing water is a concern and console parts should be cleaned and disinfected regularly to prevent air contamination.
Whole Home Humidifiers:
If you have central heat installed in your house, you may want to consider adding a whole home humidifier to your heating system. Equipment generally runs about $150 to $200, and installation charges will probably cost around $100.
The system is directly linked to the heat in your house, so there’s no need to fill water tanks, clean parts or move units from room to room as you need them. The water vapor is pumped into every room, creating a consistent moisture level that is both optimal and efficient. Because the humidifier is connected to the heating system, the moist air circulates only when the heat is turned on. This also increases efficiency, as the heating process is the main cause of overly dry air.
If your budget can afford it, the whole home humidification system is usually your best bet. The advantages of a whole home humidfier include:
- Effective humidity control and enhanced indoor air quality in every room of your home.
- Automatic Controls to keep humidity precisely where you need it.
- Maintains optimal comfort during heating seasons.
- A generally healthier home w/ lower likelihood of skin irritations, sore throats and respiratory problems.
- Protection of home, furnishings and furniture by reducing the risk of wood warping and cracking.
- Easier-to-operate and less intrusive than portable units —- no need to constantly fill and clean units.
- Built-in fan provides better circulation of humidified air through rooms and home.
More About Humidifiers...
- Interested in augmenting your heating system with a home humidifier? Contact the HVAC Installation team at Horizon Services TODAY!
Friday, February 5, 2010
Prevent Frozen Pipes Now!
Each and every winter, thousands of households across the country have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted by frozen, cracked and burst water pipes. At Horizon Services, we get dozens of calls per day related to frozen pipes and plumbing during the winter months. It's not just copper and metal pipes that can freeze and burst -- even the more modern plastic and PVC pipes can become victims of the cold weather.Frozen pipes can mean extremely expensive and extensive repairs...and not just from a plumbing perspective. Even a small crack can spew hundreds of gallons of water a day, and that can cause extreme damage to ceilings, walls and floors.
These kinds of plumbing disasters don't have to happen. By taking these simple preventive measures, you can save you a lot of money and heartache
Before Winter Weather Sets In...
Insulate all pipes throughout your home -- particularly in crawl spaces and attics (these exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing). The more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be. A variety of insulation materials are available at your hardward store including insulated sleeves, heat tape and thermostatically-controlled heat cables. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and closely follow all manufacturers' instructions for installation and use.
Look for and seal all leaks that allow cold air inside near where pipes are located, especially around electrical wiring and vents.Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With extreme cold temperatures, even a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.
Disconnect outdoor garden hoses. Shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. A freeze in these pipes on the outer perimeter of your house could quickly spread throughout the entire home.
When the Temperature Does Hit The Freezing Point...
Try not to let your plumbing go idle. Each day, try to run at least some water from as many fixtures -- sinks, toilets, tubs -- as you can. Even a trickle of hot and cold water running through all of your houses pipes might be all it takes to keep your pipes from freezing. It's a good idea to let a little bit warm water drip overnight from faucets. If you have any uninsulated pipes that are hidden under sinks or in closets, open up cabinets and doors to allow room heat to get to them.
If you leave your home for a few days or take a winter vacation, keep the heat on. Make sure you set the thermostat no lower than 55°F. Ask a friend or neighbor to keep an eye on your house to make sure it stays warm and pipes aren't freezing. If you're going to be gone for a real long time, it may also a good idea to entirely shut off and drain your home water system (including any fire sprinkler systems).
What To Do If Your Pipes Do Freeze...
If you turn on your faucets and nothing comes out, leave the faucets turned on and then call a professional plumber. If you suspect or know that your water pipes have frozen and burst, turn off the water at the main shut-off valve and leave the water faucets turned on.
If you suspect your pipes are frozen or actually see ice forming on your pipes, NEVER try to thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame; not only can you cause further damage to your plumbing, you risk setting your house on fire. Instead, try to thaw a frozen pipe with the warm air from a hair dryer. Start by warming the pipes that are closest to the faucet and work your way toward the coldest section of pipe. Do not use a hair dryer or any electrical appliances in areas where water has leaked or collected -- you could be electrocuted.
Related Plumbing Information...
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Quick Guide to HVAC Efficiency Ratings
When purchasing a furnace, heat pump or air conditioner, ALWAYS ask about its Efficiency Ratings. They will tell you will tell you how efficiently your heating and cooling equipment uses fuel (gas, oil or electricity). These ratings and standards are determined by the Environmental Protection Agency and other government and industry authorities, and all new heating and cooling sold today must meet certain efficiency rating minimums.The most-frequently used efficiency ratings are:
- SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio): This ratio tells you the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity The SEER rating of any unit can range anywhere from 13 to 17. The higher the SEER the more efficient the system will be and the less it will cost in the long run to own and operate.
- HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor): Similar to SEER,it is a measurement of efficiency of the heating portion of a heat pump. HSPF ratings range from 6.8 to 10; high-efficiency units have efficiencies of 7.5 HSPF or above.
- AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency ratio): A measurement of the percent of heat produced by a furnace for every dollar of fuel consumed. The higher the AFUE rating, the lower the fuel costs. All furnaces manufactured today must meet at least 78%. Older furnaces (10 – 15 years or older) may fall below this minimum. Furnaces with AFUE ratings from 78% to 80% are considered mid-efficiency; ones with AFUE ratings above 90% are considered high-efficiency.
- MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value): Not a former talk show host. MERV is a filter rating system relating to the size of the holes in the filter that allow air to pass through. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the holes and the higher the efficiency in capturing contaminants. MERV rating range from a low of 1 to a high of 16.
- ENERGY STAR: An Environmental Protection Agency designation attached to HVAC products that meet or exceed guidelines for high-efficiency performance above the standard government minimums.
Look For The Label
When shopping for new HVAC equipment or any electrical appliance, look for the EnergyGuide label, which should come with the equipment's paperwork or be posted on the appliance at retail stores. The EnergyGuide will help you compare the energy use and efficiency of a particular model relative to other available models with the appropriate ratings listed above.
The federal government requires manufacturers to affix the label to the following products:
- Furnaces
- Boilers
- Central air conditioners
- Room air conditioners
- Heat pumps
- Water heaters
- Pool heaters
- Refrigerators and Freezers
- Dishwashers
- Clothes Washers and Dryers
ENERGY STAR-qualified models will have the ENERGY STAR mark on the label or somewhere on the appliance.
More About Efficiency Ratings...
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